Phantom Canyon
Spooky Groad along the Gold Belt Byway
The Phantom Canyon loop utilizes historic railroad lines and stagecoach roads for a 100 kilometer route through the mining country of Teller County. Along with Gold Camp, these routes make up the majority of the Gold Belt Byway’s gravel roads. Obviously, the significance of these routes did not even remotely begin with European and American settlement. No doubt, any paths deemed viable for transportation of ore were being used by Native tribes long before westward expansion plunged into Colorado. Also a geologist’s dream- the area is incredibly rich in geomorphic history, replete with fossils and prehistoric remains still being discovered today.
The route begins in Cañon City at the Wal-Mart on the edge of town. This is our preferred place to park if you plan on doing the full loop. From here, it's a rolling trek through high desert to the mouth of the canyon. Once in the canyon, the landscape begins a dramatic change as elevation increases. The cholla cactus, rabbit brush, and sage species of the arid plains fade into juniper-piñon woodlands, eventually culminating in a sub-alpine aspen-conifer mix. Though a bit wash-boardy at times, the journey up the canyon is fairly casual and keeps at a gentle grade for the entire climb to Victor.
once in Victor, you have the chance to refuel at the Claim Jumper general store. Continue on highway 67 for an asphalt descent past an (slightly depressing) active, open pit gold mine en route to Cripple Creek. Shelf Road begins right before you get to town. Congrats y’all- this is where the good stuff begins. Let yer hair down.
Shelf Road is a very rowdy, 25 mile descent through rugged terrain. It represents the true backcountry section of the Gold belt Byway. As you descend the upper portion there are massive views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains rising above canyon walls and rock out-croppings (look out for Window Rock, you’ll know when you see it).
The climax, and inspiration behind its namesake, is the narrow shelf that forms the middle section of the road. The shelf clings to limestone walls and descends above a beautiful valley hundreds of feet below you. This section, more than any other, really takes you out of the present. Cue the Ennio Morricone. Once you have hit asphalt again, it's an easy drop back into town. After Oil Well Flats, you’ll pass the Garden Park Fossil area, home to many well known dinosaur excavation sites.
We really enjoy riding this route during October in part because of the changing leaves and, of course, the spooky vibes. Depending on the day or time of year, the byway can have a decent amount of car traffic. Be on the lookout through blind turns and narrow sections. Also, the only refill points are in Victor and Cripple Creek so come prepared with extra water and a repair kit. There are also numerous primitive spots along Phantom Canyon and Oil Well Flats if you want to spend the weekend camping.
